May 31 2004
A comfortable ride on switch back roads with Topes (sleeping policemen) and rock falls through the mountains in the minibus belonging to Autotransportes Turisticos as advised recently at dinner. There were clear signs of the building of new water gullies to direct storm water away from destroying the tarmac surface. It took six hours instead of twice that by first class coaches, money well spent. We stopped half way at a little rose garden with good toilets (flushed by bucket filled at the tank outside).
On arrival at Puerto Escondido took a taxi to our hotel Arco Iris and although Joan expressed disappointment at the security of ground floor room, she was delighted by the gardens, the good sized swimming pool and the restaurant on a balcony overlooking the sea. International Surfing Contests are held in November on this beach. We strolled along the front, had dinner but our sleep was interrupted by an hour of a vicious thunder storm - we had obviously left the mountain road just in time.
Tuesday 1 June
The weather after last nights storm was beautiful. Pelicans were diving for fish at the point where the river flowed into the sea. We crossed the river, had breakfast and then followed the river to the harbour noting egrets, herons and spoonbills all fishing.
We took a boat trip around the bay though learning it was the wrong time to see dolphins and turtles but saw frigate birds, with white breasts and forked tails flying around the light house. He took us around the local sandy bays, beautiful and reminiscent of Gower on a fine day.
On return we sussed out the buses for our onward journey and spent a long time talking to a Canadian girl from Sudbury Ontario, she had been taking a course in Spanish in Mexico City and was now travelling around before flying home. We met her again on horse shoe shaped Playa Carrizalillo with azure blue sea and flowering trees all around and purple backed crabs hiding in the grass after which the bay is named.
There were coconut palm trees to provide shelter from the sun, under which Joan records a superb squeezed orange juice - the best yet.
Although the beach shelved steeply and it was difficult to get of because of the undertow we had two lovely swims, though she does record help from her friend (me?).
2 June Bahais Huatulco, Crucetita
In the garden just before breakfast Joan saw a brown humming bird, but is still waiting to see the beautiful iridescent coloured ones
Another grey rainy morning so we decided to move on to Bahias Huatulco by ordinary bus to Pochutla where we took a collectivo taxi to Crucecita picking up and dropping people on the route. At one point in front were the driver, a woman with a baby and another man with Joan and I plus another woman with a baby in the back. No one uses seat belts, although there is a sign advising their use.
We had a beautiful light room with air-con, the best so far this trip, in the Hotel Plaza Conejo. The Port Cruz is a naval base, there was also a very smart looking one at Puerto Escondido, but all we saw at this one were three sleepy looking sailors gardening - Joan felt the rest must be away at war somewhere. We bathed at the port with bigger waves than previously but easier to get out and decided to stay a few days if the weather holds.
3 June, Cacaluta Bay, Robbery at Knife Point
A lovely day for swimming but first we took our laundry to the place around the corner and had a good breakfast at Cafe Oasis, on going to our room for bathers we found we had been moved as the doors were now off the hinge awaiting revarnishing.
We took a taxi to Bahia Cacaluta to the start point of a 3km walk down a path through the trees and mangroves to the beach. It was a magical walk with two deer who had come to drink at a large pool in the path, masses of wonderful butterflies reminiscent of the huge world famous festival of butterflies in Mexico also taking water at the edge of the pools, colourful birds one grey and white about magpie size, others were yellow and dark blue, some red and orange.
Flashes of colour through the trees some yellow trumpet flowers with willow leaves, little yellow flowering cucumber type climbers with a green barbed fruit which ripened to a bright orange and opened as a fleshy flower but without visible sign of seeds. There were spiny trees and tall 10 foot thin cactus and some very tall green trees with three-part bulbous dark brown fruits.
Then before us was a vast beautiful shelving golden brown sandy bay with huge waves, sheltered at one end by a small island. This was a simply magnificent scene. Slowly we became aware of two men fishing in a depth leaving only their heads above watery. They were obviously working as a separated pair, presumably at either end of a fishing net dragging it forward. One man swam for fish with a large hook for catching octopus.
Next we noted them dragging a tyre with a net beneath up the beach. It was full of octopus and huge oysters and lots of spiny whelks and a solitary fish. They tipped their spoils on a huge wooden sign on the floor, presumably blown over in high wind. Its purpose still clear NATIONAL PARK NO FISHING, rather ironic to be of such use for poachers we thought.
We watched them skin the fish, wash the whelks - literally bashed from their shells, the oysters were opened by a knife to reveal beautiful mother of pearl interiors. Brian took several photographs of the scene and all appeared friendly.
They advised us it was quicker to walk back through their village on the Maguey beach to the main road directly opposite to the direction to our arrival. They went ahead but we followed along a footpath in the trees.
Suddenly they stopped, I wondered if we ought to walk back into open beach but decided to proceed, they demanded money but we had deliberately carried little as normal, just enough for the taxi back. The far younger man pointed his oyster opening knife at Joan's throat and angrily took our our small day rucksack with both our cameras. As they walked away I pleaded for the cameras because of the importance to us of records of our holiday they reluctantly returned my far more valuable SLR (perhaps thinking it harder to sell/use), none of us then aware they were handing back the camera with several photographs of them. In the end taking only our cash, Joan's simple film camera and our torch. The older man waved when the other wasn't looking, signalling that we should retraced our path. He may have given earlier warning at the outset which unfortunately we did not read, but then we had no indication whatever of unpleasantness, Joan records she never thought of them as dangerous murderers, for my part it was just an opportunist attempt at robbery by poor hard working people hoping to get money.
We walked 3km back to the road meeting only one other couple on the way a measure of the wildness and eventually stopped a passing taxi. On return to the hotel I had to ask the driver to wait for his fare whilst I went to our room for the money.
That evening we found an excellent shop selling organic coffee, El Pacifico, and a reasonable breakfast menu. Next door we could hear shuttles flying and walked in to found four old wooden looms at work making cotton cloth, behind which they were selling table cloths, place settings and napkins presumably their own produce. We wanted to buy but in searching for the Post Office, opposite the Fire Station, we went past a sports ground with young people playing football, volley ball and basket ball making it seem a real town.
Joan had a good meal of camarones with avocado pair, tomato and cucumber in a bed of lettuce whereas I apparently settled for a steak.
Friday 4 June
Cloudy again but we went to El Pacifico for breakfast and found they were fourth generation coffee growers, having a big plantation 60km away in the hills where it is higher altitude and also humid. They grow Pluna Alta variety which has pairs of leaves between big berries which they regarded as in the world's best ten varieties. We had papaya for breakfast and he brought us honey from their hives on the plantation, a good combination to eat.
His father still works at 70 and looked very fit and said we were too young to retire ( I was 69 at the time). They showed us a video of the whole coffee process and I think he ran trips there in the tourist season. The film showed the coffee pickers with baskets held around their waists by a backstrap thus leaving both hands free. The crop was tipped into heavy sacks which were brought to the processing plant in heavy sacks carried on their backs. Explaining a lot of hard work went into making their coffee.
Just another example of the individual welcome we regularly get as an independent travelling couple. One that Joan carefully recorded, vividly recalled as I write 13 years later. I might be tempted to record more of the ever increasing successful logistics behind our method of movement.
Since it was still raining we decided to book a ticket for an overnight bus to Tuxtla Gutierrez starting at midnight and arriving at dawn. We went to the post office to establish the price of postage where the man was very helpful but finding it would double the cost of the tablecloth we had in mind decided not to proceed.
As I was using the internet at one of several terminals when I found the man at the next machine spoke good English and was in fact a tourist guide. We told him about yesterdays robbery and he called the tourist office saying we should report it to help stop further incidences of this type. An English speaking tourist officer arrived and took us to the police station in her car where we made a statement of five pages in Spanish which each had to be signed on both sides and the bottom making 15 signatures in all. She helpfully translated to ensure we both understood fully - but I seem to remember being pleased with my ability to explain the happenings in Spanish, I wish I still had that fluency!! Plus four photocopies of our passports. Unfortunately I refused to have my film processed in town for worries about the quality which obviously inhibited their attempts to follow up the matter - this was still the era of film not digital cameras so I couldn't even show them a picture!! Though I did return a copy of the photograph after returning home but without a response.
The police station was a big fairly new building but unfortunately the roof was leaking alongside the computers. It was still raining as we left, now we understand why the town has such a big central drainage system!
.
A comfortable ride on switch back roads with Topes (sleeping policemen) and rock falls through the mountains in the minibus belonging to Autotransportes Turisticos as advised recently at dinner. There were clear signs of the building of new water gullies to direct storm water away from destroying the tarmac surface. It took six hours instead of twice that by first class coaches, money well spent. We stopped half way at a little rose garden with good toilets (flushed by bucket filled at the tank outside).
On arrival at Puerto Escondido took a taxi to our hotel Arco Iris and although Joan expressed disappointment at the security of ground floor room, she was delighted by the gardens, the good sized swimming pool and the restaurant on a balcony overlooking the sea. International Surfing Contests are held in November on this beach. We strolled along the front, had dinner but our sleep was interrupted by an hour of a vicious thunder storm - we had obviously left the mountain road just in time.
 |
| PUERTO ESCONDIDO BAY FROM HOTEL BALCONY |
The weather after last nights storm was beautiful. Pelicans were diving for fish at the point where the river flowed into the sea. We crossed the river, had breakfast and then followed the river to the harbour noting egrets, herons and spoonbills all fishing.
 |
| PUERTO ESCONDIDO FISHING AND BOAT HIRE |
 |
| BOAT TRIP AROUND PUERTO ESCONDIDO BAYS |
 |
| PLAYA CARRIZALILLO |
 |
| JOAN UNDER PALM SHADE AT PLAYA CARRIZALILLO |
 |
| BRIAN and JOAN at PLAYA CARRIZALILLO |
2 June Bahais Huatulco, Crucetita
In the garden just before breakfast Joan saw a brown humming bird, but is still waiting to see the beautiful iridescent coloured ones
Another grey rainy morning so we decided to move on to Bahias Huatulco by ordinary bus to Pochutla where we took a collectivo taxi to Crucecita picking up and dropping people on the route. At one point in front were the driver, a woman with a baby and another man with Joan and I plus another woman with a baby in the back. No one uses seat belts, although there is a sign advising their use.
 |
| CRUCECITA? |
3 June, Cacaluta Bay, Robbery at Knife Point
A lovely day for swimming but first we took our laundry to the place around the corner and had a good breakfast at Cafe Oasis, on going to our room for bathers we found we had been moved as the doors were now off the hinge awaiting revarnishing.
We took a taxi to Bahia Cacaluta to the start point of a 3km walk down a path through the trees and mangroves to the beach. It was a magical walk with two deer who had come to drink at a large pool in the path, masses of wonderful butterflies reminiscent of the huge world famous festival of butterflies in Mexico also taking water at the edge of the pools, colourful birds one grey and white about magpie size, others were yellow and dark blue, some red and orange.
 |
| DESERTED PATH TO BAHIA CACALUTA |
 |
| BAHIA CACALUTA |
 |
| FISHERMEN WITH THEIR CATCH BAHIA CACALUTA |
 |
| CLEANING FISH ON SIGN PARC NATIONAL HUATULCO |
 |
| THE PAIR ( ROBBER TO RIGHT) CLEANING FISH ON SIGN of PARC NATIONAL HUATULCO |
Suddenly they stopped, I wondered if we ought to walk back into open beach but decided to proceed, they demanded money but we had deliberately carried little as normal, just enough for the taxi back. The far younger man pointed his oyster opening knife at Joan's throat and angrily took our our small day rucksack with both our cameras. As they walked away I pleaded for the cameras because of the importance to us of records of our holiday they reluctantly returned my far more valuable SLR (perhaps thinking it harder to sell/use), none of us then aware they were handing back the camera with several photographs of them. In the end taking only our cash, Joan's simple film camera and our torch. The older man waved when the other wasn't looking, signalling that we should retraced our path. He may have given earlier warning at the outset which unfortunately we did not read, but then we had no indication whatever of unpleasantness, Joan records she never thought of them as dangerous murderers, for my part it was just an opportunist attempt at robbery by poor hard working people hoping to get money.
We walked 3km back to the road meeting only one other couple on the way a measure of the wildness and eventually stopped a passing taxi. On return to the hotel I had to ask the driver to wait for his fare whilst I went to our room for the money.
That evening we found an excellent shop selling organic coffee, El Pacifico, and a reasonable breakfast menu. Next door we could hear shuttles flying and walked in to found four old wooden looms at work making cotton cloth, behind which they were selling table cloths, place settings and napkins presumably their own produce. We wanted to buy but in searching for the Post Office, opposite the Fire Station, we went past a sports ground with young people playing football, volley ball and basket ball making it seem a real town.
Joan had a good meal of camarones with avocado pair, tomato and cucumber in a bed of lettuce whereas I apparently settled for a steak.
Friday 4 June
Cloudy again but we went to El Pacifico for breakfast and found they were fourth generation coffee growers, having a big plantation 60km away in the hills where it is higher altitude and also humid. They grow Pluna Alta variety which has pairs of leaves between big berries which they regarded as in the world's best ten varieties. We had papaya for breakfast and he brought us honey from their hives on the plantation, a good combination to eat.
His father still works at 70 and looked very fit and said we were too young to retire ( I was 69 at the time). They showed us a video of the whole coffee process and I think he ran trips there in the tourist season. The film showed the coffee pickers with baskets held around their waists by a backstrap thus leaving both hands free. The crop was tipped into heavy sacks which were brought to the processing plant in heavy sacks carried on their backs. Explaining a lot of hard work went into making their coffee.
Just another example of the individual welcome we regularly get as an independent travelling couple. One that Joan carefully recorded, vividly recalled as I write 13 years later. I might be tempted to record more of the ever increasing successful logistics behind our method of movement.
Since it was still raining we decided to book a ticket for an overnight bus to Tuxtla Gutierrez starting at midnight and arriving at dawn. We went to the post office to establish the price of postage where the man was very helpful but finding it would double the cost of the tablecloth we had in mind decided not to proceed.
As I was using the internet at one of several terminals when I found the man at the next machine spoke good English and was in fact a tourist guide. We told him about yesterdays robbery and he called the tourist office saying we should report it to help stop further incidences of this type. An English speaking tourist officer arrived and took us to the police station in her car where we made a statement of five pages in Spanish which each had to be signed on both sides and the bottom making 15 signatures in all. She helpfully translated to ensure we both understood fully - but I seem to remember being pleased with my ability to explain the happenings in Spanish, I wish I still had that fluency!! Plus four photocopies of our passports. Unfortunately I refused to have my film processed in town for worries about the quality which obviously inhibited their attempts to follow up the matter - this was still the era of film not digital cameras so I couldn't even show them a picture!! Though I did return a copy of the photograph after returning home but without a response.
The police station was a big fairly new building but unfortunately the roof was leaking alongside the computers. It was still raining as we left, now we understand why the town has such a big central drainage system!
.
No comments:
Post a Comment